Posts Tagged ‘Italy travel’

Dining like an Italian- Mangia

Friday, July 1st, 2011

DINE LIKE AN ITALIAN.

If you want to dine the Italian way, then, M A N G I A.

You will be expected to order an antipasto, primo, secondo with contorno, then dolce, maybe un vino di meditazione ( dessert wine), and finally café`.  Ordering all of these plates is not obligatory even if the waiter makes you feel it is.  He is doing his job, selling food. Do not feel pressured to order it all.  You may select only a few plates. Traditional ordering could take hours.  If your dining companion wants courses 2 & 4 and you want courses 1 & 3 you could be waiting all evening.

If you want to save some time (alla Americana) then you may instruct the waiter to bring you the plates at the same time. “ Ci porta tutti i piatti insieme allo stesso tempo per favore.  Please bring us all the plates at the same time. Not very Italian but will expedite your meal.  And whatever you do, don’t cut the long pasta with a fork! Twirl baby, Twirl.Just wear black to dinner that night.

Antipasto                Appetizer

Primo                      Pasta, soup or risotto

Secondo                 Meat or fish

(And just meat or fish)

Contorno               Vegetables are side plates, salads, spinach etc

Dolce                      Desserts

Vino di meditazione  – Dessert wine

Cafe                         Coffee (never brought WITH the dessert)

FRUITS AND VEGETABLES

Do not touch the fruit with your hands …ever.

The shop keeper will pick the fruit and put it in a bag for you. When purchasing fruits and vegetables, note the location of where the product was grown. In most cases the products are grown within Italy. To touch the fruits and vegetables in Italy you need to wear plastic gloves.

NON TOCCARE= DO NOT TOUCH

COLAZIONE: Breakfast Breakfast is almost always included at your hotel.  The nicer the hotel typically the better breakfast.  Eggs are not served for breakfast in Italy, but are normally served at home for an evening meal as a Frittata. You will see eggs on the breakfast menu, beginning at the 3-4 star hotel level.

WATER- Can you drink it.? You CAN drink the water, however no one does.

Italy is blessed with a wealth of fresh water springs throughout the country.  Whether at home or dining out, Italians order and drink bottled water.  You may even see them at the local spring filling up their empty bottles.  So, Order the bottled water.

Vocabulary:  Frizzante or Gassata or naturale or Liscia ( smooth)

ICE CREAM; Artigenale which means hand crafted is the word to look for when selecting an ice cream shop.  Avoid the shops with the mounds of gelato.

COFFEE BAR ETICHETTE

An Italian bar will serve both coffee and alcohol all day long.  Italian may go to a bar for breakfast, and typically have their colazione standing up (it is cheaper that way).    There is a ritual/ process to paying for and to obtain your café.   The price is different if you stand at the bar (less expensive) than if you sit down at a table. (More expensive).

Ordering Procedure for the “BAR” Go to the cassa, (cash register) first and pay for whatever you are having.  Get the scontrino (receipt), and take it to the barman. Now wave the receipt in front of the barman then he will notice you, and then order your café `and paste or cornetto, brioche (literally means dough or pastry). In a perfect world, he should tear the receipt and give it back to you.  By law, the consumer must hold onto the receipt for 50 feet from the store, in case the Guardia di Financia (that is mobile IRS in gray and yellow cars and uniforms) stop you.   They can legally fine you, because you did not keep the receipt.  They can also fine the establishment because it is now obvious that they intended to keep the cash and not pay the tax.

Scrontino Receipt

Sprumuta di Aranca- Fresh squeezed oj

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Italian Language-Learn some before you go

Friday, July 1st, 2011

CHAPTER TWO: BASIC ETICHETTE

Why it is that traveling Americans are always so dreadful.” Dodsworth by Sinclair Lewis

MYTHS VS FACT You decide HOW ARE WE PERCEIVED AS AMERICANS?

We cannot dispute the fact that America is known as a force in the world, both economically and for our military. We are loved and despised for our social freedoms, admired for the opportunity given to each and every citizen to have a chance to pursue his/her dream. It is no wonder why so many foreigners want to come and live here. Look at our borders. Daily people risk their life to get here. That position was one I had heard time and again from my well traveled parents in the 50’s and 60’s. And is still applicable today for some cultures. But is it applicable to Italians? Do other Italians still envy the USA so much that they all want to become American? There has been a change in attitude over the past thirty years with regard to our culture. The whole world no longer envies us as they once did. As a conscientious traveler, we must ask ourselves what brought on the change? One reason is that Italy has changed. The quality of life has improved dramatically in western European countries since WWII. Life is much better now for Western Europeans and therefore many are less likely to want to leave.

VIGNETTE: I was sitting in the piazza in Portofino with another Italian guide waiting for our group to gather. Many, many groups entered the piazza in Portofino during a day. “See that group?” I was asked by my colleague, “yes.” “They are American.” “How can you tell?” “Well, all the other groups come to the piazza and view it from the side, but this group came into the very middle of the piazza and claimed the entire center, as if they intended to conquer it.”. Do they still love us? Yes, they do. Do they want to move to the USA? No, they don’t.

HOW DO WE PERCEIVE ITALIANS?

They do not like to work and have a lot of holidays. Great food and bad government. They drink a lot of wine They seem to have a lot of strikes. They live with their mothers. They adore the Madonna. They dress well and pose. They are all in the mafia.

HOW TO RELATE TO PEOPLE-Italian Style In a fast moving world, I believe we have forgotten how to communicate with real people. We email, phone and Skype. It is no longer necessary to look people in the eyes when conducting our daily transactions. Italian Style- is all about how you treat people. It is about maintaining the human element throughout our daily lives. Courtesy. Look directly in the eye, and acknowledge whomever you are speaking with. Take your time and begin with small talk first. The actual reason for your visit is secondary and comes after the social graces have been satisfied. Remember: People first, then business.

VIGNETTE: I had an encounter with an Italian shop keeper. Her comment, “I see you speak some Italian, may I ask why is it that Americans never look us in the eye or acknowledge us when they enter our store? We feel badly that they do not acknowledge us. Is it because you have grande magazzini (big warehouses) and you do not need to speak with anyone? Or is it because you think you are better than everyone else?” When visiting an artisan or food producer, be mindful when you schedule the appointment, to allow enough time. As Americans we are known as “Sempre in Fretta” Always in a hurry. The visit will take as long as it takes. More often than not, the host will offer you something to eat or drink or perhaps even a small gift as a positive memory “Ricordo” of the experience. This happens all over Italy. Try to not rush off.

GREETINGS: Learn a little Italian; it will go a long way. This is not a language book. But you cannot expect to travel around Italy using only English. Americans all to often begin encounters in English. You need a few basic words of Italian to make your experience more rewarding. We want to be better travelers. We want to be respectful and savvy about the country we are going to. Then give it a go, and try to speak the language!

Italian Alphabet: 21 letters No J, K, X, Y, W

Lesson # one. Our culture has lost all formality in our use of English. We say “ Hi, how ya doin’? To everybody without ever stopping to listen to the answer. Romance languages are more formal and will address different people within the society respectfully based on the intimacy or lack thereof in the relationship. Your greeting sets the tone of the interaction.

Don’t use “ciao” unless you know the person well. We all know the word and may even use it in the USA. “Ciao” is a very informal greeting meaning hello or goodbye. It is used when greeting people you know well; family, peers, or to greet small children and dogs. Remember: It is okay to kiss, (both cheeks) men and women.

Please learn and use at least two of the following:

Buon Giorno- Good Day

Buona Sera- Good Afternoon (begins around 16:00 ish)

Buona Notte- Good Night (final salutation when going to bed)

ArriverderLa. – Good bye to you (Formal) Arriverderci. – Good bye to you (Plural/informal)

Buona Giornata- Have a good day! Salve`- Health (Old trail greeting-informal)

POLITE PHRASES:

Scusi- Excuse Me

Prego You are welcome

Mi dispiace- I am sorry

Lei Parla inglese?- Do you speak English?

Non parlo l’Italiano I do not speak Italian.

Grazie Hear me… Three syllables Grah-ts’-yeh NOT Gra-z!!!

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Italian Sojourn-May 2011-SICILIA

Friday, June 10th, 2011

WHAT TO SEE IN SICILIA-

Some of  my clients feel one week is enough  time to see “ALL” of Sicily.  I am here to tell you it is not.  You will miss a lot if you think that allocating only seven nights  to see the entire  island allows you to see it all .  Sicily deserves more of your time.   With more World Heritage Sites than other regions, Sicily needs to be seen and seen well.  You should consider  off islands such as the Egadis, Aeolian and Pantelleria  as additional  places to visit while you are in Sicily.  It is easy for you to  fly into to either Catania or Palermo Airports.  There is also a smaller airport named Birgi located in Trapani, but Birgi is only served by secondar low cost airlines.  Birgi is a good airport if you want to include a visit to Pantelleria.  But you would need an extra 3 days to visit that islands.

I have just returned from three weeks in Italy. My travels began in Palermo  early May where I immediately reserved dinner at one of my favorite places in Palermo, Osteria dei Vespri.

The Osteria dei Vespri is located adjacent to Palazzo Gangi, the famous palazzo where Gattopardo was filmed years ago  and staredBurt Lancaster ( The movie is unfortunately S L O W).     Osteria dei Vespri is listed in  a booklet “Le Soste di Ulisse”" a small guide published by a collective grouping of Sicilian producers of fine wines, small hotels and ristorante.  The criteria to be included is difficult and as far as I can tell is all about quality of product.  We had a minestra di lenticche di Ustica which was surpurb. ( Lentils).  Find the guide on line http://www.lesostediulisse.it/

On this particular trip, we toured Sicily counter clockwise.  I am unsure how many times I have been to Sicily,   as it is surely over twenty  visitsby now.  One of those visits I spend almost two months on Panarea in the Aeolians, what fun.   Needless to say, I no longer need a map to navigate the island and have pre-selected my favorite places, to visit and dine in along the way.  It is always a pleasure to return to Sicily.  The gastronomy of the island is familiar to me, since they are flavours that were served in our home growing up in NJ.  Wild fennel, almond paste, and pignoli nuts, raisins, sword, stratto( Tomato paste extract) ,  eggplant and tuna.  As with all of Italy, one is never far from where the food is produced.   Sicilian cuisine is one of my favorite regional cuisines in all of Italy.

Departing Palermo, we stopped at the Greek Temple of Segesta  the theatre on Monte Barbaro`.    Greek Doric in style and dating from 5th c, the temple sits in a valley  fortunatelly undisturbed by man.   Nearby is the Parco dello Zingaro, or park of the gypsy where hiking trails begin at the tonnara, and take you past stunning scenery of  blue coves, and rocky coast.

We drove west to the Province of  Trapani and based at a simple and comfortable B&B  Finestra sulle Saline located overlooking the salt pans and the Egadis Islands.  We took the barchetta over to the Island of Mozia /Mothia which was once a Phoenician naval base 600BC and was one of the most prosperous colonies at that time.  There is an easy hike you can take around the island where you can see the sunken Roman road which was used to connect the island to the mainland millenia ago.   The museum and island are owned by the Whitaker Foundation producers of Marsala wine.

Positioned near Trapani one can also visit medevil Erice.  It is so easy to drive to eastern Trapani, and then take the funicular up hill so you do not have to drive the winding  road which is similar to driving  Aspen’s Independence Pass.  Erice, has 360 degree views and one can see Monte Colfano and the plains surrounding the city and beyond.  But for me the best part of Erice  is the visit to Maria Grammatico for her desserts. Raised by the nuns, Maria wrote Bitter Almonds which tells of her life and the art of Sicilian marzipan, and luckily gives us her recipes ( my favorite biscotti della regina) which you can dunk into the passito from Pantelleria.  The thought makes a girl want to get on a plane in Colorado and go.

Located on the island of Levanzo, one of the three Egadis Islands, is privately owned La Grotta del Genovese and is a site not to miss, though many do.  Another of my favorite places to direct travelers to.    You need to be  in shape as the hike down and then back up hill to and from the grotto takes a bit of effort but you are rewarded when you get there.  The grotto contains petroglyphs and pictographs which date from 12,000-7,000bc and attest  to the time when the islands were connected to the Atlas mountains in Marocco and to Sicily proper.  Spending the day on Levanzo time is suspended as you ponder exactly how much time 12,000 years ago really means.

Now here is where the speed travelers miss out,  unless you have extra time, you will miss visiting  The  Greek colony of Selunite and the Cava di Cusa the stone quarries that supplied the Greek colony of Selunite with their stone.  Selunite  is situated  on the shore line of the Mediterrean sea.  The coast is untouched, and one can envision  the landscape 2700 years ago when the  Greek ships arrived and brought with them settlers to inhabit Magna Grecia.

Selunite temple

Also near to Selunite is Planeta La Forestiera- a small contemporary inn owned by the Planeta winery.  Good food, good drink and good views!  http://www.planetaestate.it/lang/en/

But most speed travlers head directly over to Agrigento, Agrigento.   The Provincial Archaeological  museum in Agrigento is worth the visit and contains items that were found around the temples.  The temples are a must but I  suggest that you have a guide for 2 hours who will walk with you down hill past all three of them.  The best place to stay in my opinionis the  Hotel Villa Athena which is a pricey five star recently renovated and is  the closest hotel with view of the temples.   http://www.hotelvillaathena.it/ Baglio della Luna – 4 star is a  good second best, but frankly I would not stay in Agrigento when Mandranova is near enough.

Mandranova is an  olive producing farm that is award winning for their single varietal production of four types of olive oils. You will want to purchase a case or two.  Giuseppe and Silvia are the owners and personally oversee all areas of their property. The hotel is an agriturismo with few rooms and lots of style.  Meals can be taken on the property.  Mandranova is a great base to explore this central part of Italy.  Located only 30 minutes fromteh valley of the temples on one of Sicily’s better kept highways, it is easy to get to and worth the drive.  http://www.mandranova.it/

Ragusa Cathedral

Traveling east once again we arrive to the Province of Ragusa.  This eastern part of Sicily was brutally damaged duringthe earthquake of 1693 and many building collapsed allowing for new construction to reflect the architectural style of the time namely Sicilian baroque. Noto, Scicli, Modica and Ragusa were all effected and each town proudly showcases their ornate duomo.  Dining in these parts deserves your attention as numerous ristorante can be found with temptations to delight.  Modica in particular is know for cioccolato modicana, made from  carub  and without fat.  Tempting chocolates found in baroque candy shops can have additions such as agrumi ( citrus), and red pepper.    http://www.bonajuto.it/

Not far from Modica is  Vendicari, a beautiful park, unscathed which is an estuary for migrating birds flying from North Africa to Europe. Take a picnic lunch and wander the trails.  http://www.oasivendicari.net/

But Siracusa feels like home.  You cannot imagine the sense of history one feels when standing in the piazza across from Il Duomo di Siracusa which was once a Greek temple dedicated to Athena, constructed in the 8thc BC and whose colums are still visible inside the existing structure.  Today the duomo is still in use of course as a catholic church. Wandering Ortygia one has a sense you have returned to a distant past.  There are other fascinating sites on Ortygia and near Siracusa to visit,  The castello of Euralio- Greek fortification, The Catacombs of San Giovanni, Pantallica necropolis which is wonderful for hiking, and the Archaeological park and Paolo Orsi museum.

As far as accomodations, Ortygia is the place to be if you ask me so that you can wander in the evenings.  Accomodations can range from five star to simple and confortable hip three stars such as Gutowski located on the waters edge.  And did I mention dining? Don Camillo would be my suggestion for classic sicilian fair or to celebrate a special occasion or classic seas food trattorie found near the harbour where the fish could not be fresher if it walked off the boat to your plate.  http://www.ristorantedoncamillosiracusa.it/

Siracusa has a lively outdoor market everyday, bring your camera and don’t forget to record the sounds are as good as the colorful sites. I am able to report that for the second year in a row I was able to see the Classical  Greek theatre in Siracusa held where else in the Greek Theatre.   This year we were there  for opening night for Filottete.   Can you picture sitting on seats that were used 2600 years ago for the same purpose?  Upholding tradition, theatre was held at dusk or dawn.  Luckily the performance is at dusk in the 21st century.   The performance begain with the Italian National Anthem sung by school children and brought tears to my eyes.  Followed by the premier.

Heading north from Siracusa you will find Mt Etna and Taormina.  Both are frequented by tourists on the  Grand Tour.  If you have time, it isa  most memorable  experience to take the funicular to the top of Etna and then go on the lunar mobile tour with the vulcanologist. You can rent a jacket before you go, yes it is cold up there.  http://www.etnaexcursions.com/

Taormina is always crowded.  Cruise ships leave loads of floral shirted, tourists to shop the chic store along Corso Umberto. The town is beautiful no doubt about it with imposing view of Mongibello ( Mt Etna) in the distance and tthe blue Mediterrean below.  Their Greek/Roman Theatre is a venue for contemporary music held in teh summer months, in fact Andra Boccelli will be there July 2 this year.   There are many many five star hotels and hotels in all categories.  My favorites are San Domenico a converted convent and Villa Ducale which is above town and away from it all.

From here “volendo” willingly as they say, one could drive to Milazzo and take an aliscafo to the Aeolian Islands, ahhh but that is another story. http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/908

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As the Euro and Snow Fall

Sunday, November 28th, 2010

When is the best time to travel to Italy?

I just finished searching for mileage flights  on line so that I can return to Italy this winter.   You see winters are long and hard at 9,800 ft above Aspen, Colorado where we reside.  Considering that we are still technically in autumn, and have already had over a week of below zero days many of them with snow, it did not take much effort to convince myself to spend those 110,000 miles on two flights, and to go back to Italy for two months to reside for the remainder of the winter.  Italy has to seem balmy after five winters at this elevation. Hold that thought, and add to the flame,   a stronger dollar ( how this happened I will never know) and it makes Italy seem like a deal this winter.

When in Italy and when I do not need  to travel for R&D ( research and tour development) I stay outside of Firenze.  Being located off of SS2, the highway that links Siena and Florence is a most convenient location.  One can reach either city easily by bus.    Should the Euro continue to weaken against the dollar ( currently at 1.32), this will be the winter to be there.  Why, even a cappuccino  at Proccaci in Florence will seem like a deal.   I would much rather be sipping my” cappuccio ” between well heeled Fiorentines,  instead of elbowing my way between the “hey-dudes” at Cafe Ink in Aspen and then to add insult to injury paying close to  $5.00 for a latte.

Why not look for flights deals now?  Off season fares are ridiculously low from now until the end of March, when the warm weather returns.   You could mark your calendar by the spike in fares as soon as the thermometer leans towards 60.  But why not go now?

I look forward to hearing only Italian spoken during these winter months, a rare event in the travel worn Art Cities of Rome, Florence and Venice.  When Italy returns to the Italians that is when I want to be there.  Last Year I went to Calabria in February.  It was warm and often wet,  and we wore only a rain coat (no gloves or hats, but of course a scarf).  Easy travel gear to bring if you ask me.  I was toting my new  Moschino black umbrella with different shapes of pasta placed in the shape of  hearts.   Darn , lost it at the museum in Locri, Calabria.  The sun was strong  when it peaked through the clouds , when we left the museum  and it glistened as it bounced off of the Ionian Sea.  I forgot about the umbrella.  But ten days is not enough to beat the winter blues even if you are site seeing  the  Bergamot  tree that only grows in Calabria.   It was easy to forget winter for those few days.

This year, I’ll be back in Aspen for the last twoweeks of spring skiing, when the nights are cold but the days warm up in the 40′s. But for the moment,  there are other things to do.      AIS- The Italian Sommelier Toscana Association has the Livelli Uno class offered late January and I am not going to miss it this year.

Enjoy Winter!

un bel cafe

And if you like what you’ve been reading, like us on Conde Nast Traveler’s Travel Specialists List, where I’ve appeared for the last three years straight.